Matt Congdon is a Junior at Wheaton College in Norton, Massachusetts, where he is pursuing a Political Science/German double major. He is spending his spring 2009 semester abroad, attending the University of Regensburg in Regensburg, Germany.
Today our program ran a day trip to Munich (München). We took a chartered bus, leaving Regensburg around 9 in the morning. The trip takes just a little over an hour. Luckily, today was pretty clear so I actually could see the countryside this time - unfortunately, from the Autobahn it all looks pretty much the same - lots of hop fields, not much else.
After we made it to Munich we had an hour or so guided tour of the Pinakothek der Moderne (museum of modern art). The tour was completely in German, which was great. The woman leading the tour, however, was pretty long-winded and pretty soon I was getting annoyed and stopped paying attention. Instead of stopping at providing context and background information for a painting (which is great since it makes it possible to appreciate and understand it better) she continued to go on about how the style, colors, etc. were so expressive and so on - at that point I just got tired of trying to concentrate on what she was saying.
exterior of the Pinakothek der Moderne
After the tour was over, we had nowhere to be until 5pm so our group split up. Anya, Erwin, Heather, Kaci, Leigh, Lutz (our Resident Director) and I left the museum pretty quickly since we were tired of standing around and were getting pretty hungry. From there we went on foot to the Altstadt part of Munich where all of the food/touristy stuff is.
an obelisk on the way to the Altstadt
more buildings (and Heather)
more buildings (and our Resident Director Lutz Hügl and Erwin)
Altstadt finally
After we got to the Altsadt, we left Lutz to do his own thing and managed to grab some food (overpriced, just like everything else in Munich). After lunch and a quick stop at a nut stand, we split up further - Kaci and Leigh wanted to do some shopping and the rest of us were feeling kind of touristy so we were going to check out Frauenkirche, which was on the next street over.
Erwin, Anya, Heather, Kaci, and Leigh in front of the nut stand (they're not making faces, just chewing)
After we looked around Frauenkirche for a bit we decided to head to Marienplatz and then Viktuallenmarkt, an open-air market. At this point it's probably a good idea to note that it was really cold and really windy in Munich. For the last week or so, Regensburg has been pretty nice - usually somewhere in the 20-30s range, maybe a little breezy sometimes. Munich felt more like somewhere in the low teens, much lower when the wind blew (pretty much always), so we, of course, were going to spend the next 4 or so hours just wandering around the streets, stopping occasionally to thaw out/consult the map/ask for directions.
Marienplatz is home to the Neues Rathaus (new town hall) and also the Altes Rathaus (old town hall). Oddly enough, I'm pretty sure the Neues Rathaus is actually older than the Altes Rathaus since the old Rathaus got destroyed in WWII and was subsequently reconstructed.
Erwin, Heather and Anya being touristy/freezing to death in Marienplatz
Neues Rathaus with Frauenkirche in the background
a statue on the fountain in front of the Neues Rathaus
fruit/veggie stand at Viktuallenmarkt
the center of Viktuallenmarkt
Anya taking a picture of a pickle she just bought
After wandering around Viktuallenmarkt, we decided to go to Hofbräuhaus, a touristy brewery. Unfortunately, it wasn't where we though it was, so we spent about an hour wandering around looking for it. While we were lost and going numb from the cold, we managed to get some nice sight-seeing in.
The Altes Rathaus, which also contains a toy museum (Spielzeugmuseum). You can see the Neues Rathaus in the background.
heading away from Viktuallenmarkt
an interesting facade at Marstallplatz (?)
Spatenhaus (a restaurant)
building along Maximilianstrasse (not to be confused with Regensburg's Maximilianstrasse)
Government building - I'm pretty sure this is the main building of the Bavarian Parliament
Tourists: Erwin, Anya and Heather
Statue on Maximilianstrasse
A church we stopped at to warm up
Inside the church
When we stopped at the church, Erwin asked for directions and we found out that we were nowhere near Hofbräuhaus. A twenty minute or so walk later, and a few more stops to clarify that we were going the right way, we managed to find Hofbräuhaus, which was actually only about a block from Marienplatz, where we would need to meet everybody else in a little over an hour.
Hofbräuhaus manages to be at once a ridiculously touristy and yet somehow authentic Bavarian restaurant/brewery. Hofbräu is a pretty large Bavarian beer company - I'm not sure how widespread it is but it's certainly not a microbrew. The restaurant itself is huge, open, and loud, with big wooden tables and band that plays German folk music. The staff dress in Lederhosen/Dirndl and they of course serve Bavarian food (Weisswurst, pretzels, beer, etc.). Surprisingly enough, there are people there who aren't tourists - there were quite a few old Bavarian guys decked out in Lederhosen, hats etc. eating there too. We just got pretzels and some beer, or actually I should say a lot of beer - they sell it in 1 liter mugs.
By the time we had worked our way through that, it was time to get back to Marienplatz. There, we met up with the group and then hopped on the bus and headed home.
On Monday our 9 week Sprachkurs (Language course) began with a placement test and a campus tour. The 12 people involved got split into two groups, theoretically based off of the level of proficiency we displayed on the placement test. Apparently, I managed to do pretty poorly and got stuck in the lower of two sections, much to my shame. I'm pretty sure some of the people in the other section haven't been taking German as long as I have, so I felt pretty crappy about that. The fact that 4 our of 5 people in our group are from Wheaton might also say something (The only person from Wheaton that isn't in our section, Tyler, has already visited here and has a German boyfriend, so he has a bit of an advantage).
Our tour of the campus merely confirmed what I had already heard about the University of Regensburg - it's really ugly. It was best described to me that the people who designed the campus started with a giant block of concrete and cut away everything that didn't look like a University. Everything is made out of the same unpainted concrete in boring orthogonal shapes. It's also really big - they have about 25,000 students compared to Wheaton's 1,500.
Yesterday, we started our actual classes, which will run every weekday from 9-2:30 or so for the next 9 weeks. As one of my classmates said, it's a bit like high school again, though I'm glad there's a lot less angst (so far). I'm enjoying pretty much all of the classes except the writing one - I'm not a big fan of the instructor and I kind of hate writing in German to begin with. Other than that, I will be taking a class on German culture/geography/government, speaking (giving presentations, etc.), pronunciation, grammar, translation, and one on working from texts (books, films, songs, etc.). Needless to say, I'm going to be busy.
The good thing is that I'm finally getting to the point where I'm thinking in German for most of the day. The transition back to English after class or when I'm writing here is starting to feel weird as my brain tries to shift gears. Perhaps there is hope for me yet.
It looks like I'm finally starting to settle in here - while adjusting to the city/language/culture/people here is still an ongoing development, I'm starting to pick up where things are, which buses to take, etc. so I don't feel perpetually lost and worried. I also spent a good chunk of today heading back to IKEA, meaning that I finally have my room outfitted with pretty much everything I need (short of some decor to break up the whiteness).
With things finally settling down, I decided it would be a good time to do some catch up and fill you guys in on what I've been up to. Just a heads up, I started writing this intending it to be a quick recap of my last couple of days and it kind of grew out of control rather quickly. Here's how my first "day" went:
Wednesday, January 21st
My mom drove me down to Logan Airport in the morning. I checked my bags, we had lunch and then she headed out around 1pm ish. My flight didn't start boarding until about 2pm so I just sat and waited, trying to keep an eye out for the other people on my group flight. I knew that there were supposed to be 5 people from my program on the flight but I only recognized 2 of the other names on the list. So while I was waiting I was trying to see if I could scope out who these other two people were. As I sat there longer and longer without seeing somebody else I recognized I was starting to get nervous - why the hell was I the only one here?
Just as the plane was supposed to start boarding, the woman at the ticket counter announced that our plane had a mechanical issue and it looked like we were going to be delayed but perhaps it could be fixed in time, otherwise they had another plane lined up that we could use instead with a slight delay. Around this time one of the people I recognized, (Melissa) finally showed up and I filled her in on the situation. Worried about the other missing person, (Lukas) I gave him a call to let him know about the delay/figure out where the hell he was. At this point I learned that he was still well on his way to Boston since he had misread the flight itinerary and thought the flight went at 6 instead of 2:30. I told him that I would keep him updated on the flight but chances are there was no way that he would make it in time. Within 10 minutes or so the woman at the counter announced that we were being shifted to the other plane with only about a ~30 min delay. We were a little worried about making our connection at Dulles since there was only a 1 hour layover between flights but we figured if it got desperate we could probably sprint and make it.
When we finally got on the plane, we figured out who the two mystery people were pretty easily since they were sitting right between us (Anya from Wesleyan and Leigh from Bates). We got crammed into the tail section - I was especially cramped since the overhead bin was already full when I got there and I had to cram my backpack, laptop bag, and coat into my foot space. Thankfully, the Russian guy in front of me had the decency to keep his chair fully reclined for pretty much the whole flight.
After a quick flight to Dulles and a nice powerwalk between gates (on pretty much opposite ends of the terminal) we boarded the nice big 777 to Munich. Once again, we were waayy back in the cheap seats - past first class, business class, economy plus class, all the way back to just plain old economy class. Nonetheless, it was a really nice plane - video screens in the back of the seats with 9 channels, music and a GPS map showing you were the plane was in flight. I just sat there and did the crossword.
The flight was about 7 hours long and we managed to land ahead of schedule at about 7am local time (1am for my body).
Thursday January 22nd
Landing in Germany was a bit anticlimactic - the sun still wasn't up and the ground was covered in a thick fog. The Munich airport terminal didn't even look especially German except for the "Kein Eingang"(no entrance) signs - it was just an endless, white tunnel to Customs and then the baggage claim. The downside to our flight being on time was that we just had to wait around longer for our ride to show up. The rest of the people flying in (minus Lukas, who had missed the flight and would be talking the same one the next day) were coming in about half an hour after us out of JFK. Our Resident Director, Lutz Huewel,(the guy in charge of this whole program) would then be picking us all up.
This proved to be my introduction to the concept of "Wesleyan Time", a general lack of concern for promptness. After meeting up with the people from the other flight (Kathryn from Wheaton and Heather from Wesleyan), we sat around a waited a bit and then finally met Lutz and one of the German student assistants, Karin (it's a bit hard to find somebody when you don't have a clue what they look like, but you'd think that a large group of American College students wouldn't be that hard to find.) While we were waiting for the van to be ready, Lutz gave us our housing assignments - I was a bit disappointed to learn that I was assigned to Hiltnerheim instead of somewhere in the Altstadt. During the hour drive to Regensburg, Lutz gave us info packets and told us a little bit about the program. We would be dropped off at our dorms and then be meeting up later for a quick tour and then dinner with everybody from the program (except Lukas).
When we got to Regensburg, I, along with Anya and Leigh, got dropped off at Hiltnerheim at about 10 am local (3 am my time). Karin showed us to our rooms and then headed out. With nothing to do until 4pm, we all decided a trip across the street to the little shopping center was in order. There is a Sparkasse (a bank) a Netto (a small, discount grocery store) a bakery and a few other stores. I picked up a few things at the Netto but ran into a now all-too-familiar problem at the register - they don't take VISA. I had been hoping to avoid the fees associated with ATMs by using a debit card but I soon learned that I would have to bite the bullet and start carrying cash.
After I got back to my room, I met one of my suite mates, Johanas (I share a kitchen, 2 showers and 2 bathrooms with 4 other people who live in singles like mine). In my over-tired state, I couldn't really carry on an intelligent conversation in German or even English at that point so I just looked like an idiot. After a bit of unpacking I tried to do some writing and soon realized that I was not going to make it much longer without a nap. 3 hours later I got up and headed out to meet up the rest of the Hiltnerheim people so that we could take a bus to the Altstadt together. There I met Erwin (Wesleyan) and Elaine (Wesleyan?). Elaine actually lives in the Altstadt but she had come down to be our guide since she had been here for the previous semester and knew her way around.
After a short wait at the bus stop and about a 10 minute ride, we were in the city proper. A quick walk to Haidplatz and we were ready to wait around for everybody else to show up. At this point the nice warm (by Maine standards) weather had gotten quite chilly and windy. I'm still getting used to how much the weather changes over the course of the day here. Eventually everybody showed up: Tyler, who I already knew from Wheaton; Susie, another of the German student assistants; and Neil and Jarell, both from Vanderbilt.
Lutz took us on a brief tour of the city (not brief enough though) and then we went back to Haidplatz for dinner at "Da Tino", a pizzeria. By this time it was about 6 O'clock (12pm, day 2 for my brain) so as much as I wanted to get to know the people from the program and chat, after a beer and a whole pizza, I was about to pass out at the table. Unfortunately, Lutz was pretty wrapped up in conversation at the other table so we stayed there for about 2 hours. Finally around 8:30 or so we called it quits. I got back to my room around 9 or so and went straight to bed.
Today a bunch of us wandered around the Altstadt taking pictures and generally looking like the bunch of American tourists that we are. Here are some highlights:
Here we have the famous Regensburg Dom (cathedral). I believe that we are supposed to take a tour of it eventually. Apparently, it is undergoing long-term restoration - cleaning/replacing the stonework to remove the years of stains from pollution, etc. They've done a pretty good job so far. This is the Kirche (church) in Neupfarrplatz, which is pretty close to the Dom. Regensburg has a ridiculous number of churches.
Here is Steinerne Bruecke (literally "stone bridge"), the same one that you see in the picture at the top of the page. It's a pedestrian-only bridge that dates back to the 1100's. Across the river there are a few really nice beer gardens that I want to check out when the weather gets nice.
This is a picture of the Donau (Danube) taken from Steinerne Bruecke. Finally, this is a T-shirt I saw while window shopping. The store specialized in American hip-hop/gangster style clothing. I was kind of sad that they were closed.